PC, Mac and Linux Disk and Hard Drive Recovery

R-STUDIO

Mac, Linux & PC Disk Recovery,
and Hard Drive Recovery Tool!

Have you accidentally deleted some data?

Is your hard drive all of a sudden not letting you access the drive? 

Does your computer say that it needs to "format the drive" before it can be used?

Does it seem like your hard drive maybe has died?!

Well, R-Studio Recovery software from R-Rools might be your saving grace!

Empowered by the new unique data recovery technologies, R-STUDIO is the most comprehensive data recovery solution for recovery files from NTFS, NTFS5, ReFS, FAT12/16/32, exFAT, HFS/HFS+ and APFS (Macintosh), Little and Big Endian variants of UFS1/UFS2 (FreeBSD/OpenBSD/NetBSD/Solaris) and Ext2/Ext3/Ext4 FS (Linux) partitions. It also uses raw file recovery (scan for known file types) for heavily damaged or unknown file systems. It functions on local and network disks, even if such partitions are formatted, damaged, or deleted. Flexible parameter settings give you absolute control over data recovery.

www.r-studio.com

Ransomware Infection? This could help!!

Ransomware infections are a very real and very serious problem that general computer users, and businesses alike, should be prepared for!

• First off, the best prevention to start with is to have good security software installed that can protect you from Ransomware infections (such as Malwarebytes Anti-malware, Kaspersky Antivirus, etc).
• Secondly, have a good data backup system in place that follows the 3-2-1 backup rule to keep your data safe! 
• The 3-2-1 backup rule simply states that you should have:
• 3 copies of your data (your main data and 2 backup copies)
• On two different media types (NAS drive and a thumb drive)
• With one copy off-site for disaster recovery (cloud backup, etc).

If you do get hit with a ransomware infection, the website below can help you identify which ransomware you were infected with and if there is a de-encryption tool available to help get your data/files back: https://id-ransomware.malwarehunterteam.com/

Pacific NW Computers

www.pnwcomputers.com

360.624.7379

Simple Automatic Backup

Quick Computer/Laptop Tip:

If your laptop has an SD card slot and you don't have a data backup system in place, you can use an SD card to set up an automatic backup of your Windows computer!
No clunky external hard drive is needed if you aren't storing a ton of stuff! 

• Snag a compatible 128, 256, or 512GB Class 10 U3 V30 or better SD card off of Amazon
• Pop that little chip into the card reader slot on your laptop.
• Open up the "Backup and Restore (Windows 7)" system utility from the Windows Control Panel. 
• Select the installed SD card as your backup destination and continue with, and complete, the backup configuration! 
• Then just leave the SD card plugged in, and the computer will automatically backup to the installed SD as scheduled!

That's it! 🙌
Easy peasy, lemon squeezy; your data is now automatically backed up! 

Pacific NW Computers

www.pnwcomputers.com

360.624.7379

Upgrade your Windows 10 PC to Windows 11 NOW!

No need to wait for the Windows Update to come along... You can download and install Windows 11 RIGHT NOW!

All you have to do is use Microsoft's Windows 11 Installation Assistant, and you can upgrade your computer today!

You need to make sure your system is compatible and meets the minimum system requirements for Windows 11. You can check your computer's compatibility by using Microsoft's PC Health Check application!

Windows 11 System Requirements:

• Processor 1 gigahertz (GHz) or faster with 2 or more cores on a compatible 64-bit processor or System on a Chip (SoC).
• AMD Compatible CPUs
• Intel Compatible CPUs
• RAM Minimum of 4 gigabyte (GB).
• Storage: 64 GB or larger storage device.
• System firmware UEFI, Secure Boot capable. Check here for information on how your PC might be able to meet this requirement.
• TPM Trusted Platform Module (TPM) version 2.0. Check here for instructions on how your PC might be enabled to meet this requirement.
• Graphics card Compatible with DirectX 12 or later with WDDM 2.0 driver.
• Display High definition (720p) display that is greater than 9” diagonally, 8 bits per color channel.

How to Dispose of Batteries

Batteries power a variety of portable devices. Everything from cordless phones and laptops to cars and toys use battery power. Eventually, a battery stops powering a device or fails to charge. That means it’s time to replace it!

Knowing how to dispose of batteries properly helps protect the environment. Whether they're rechargeable AA batteries or single-use alkaline batteries, learn safe disposal. This guide offers tips on battery disposal and battery recycling.

Single-Use vs. Rechargeable Batteries

• There are two basic types of batteries in use: rechargeable and single-use or disposable ones.
• Rechargeable batteries can be charged many times before they're replaced. They're found in cordless phones, smartphones, and digital cameras. Power tools and similar devices that drain energy quickly use them too.
• Single-use batteries are found in alarm clocks, remotes, and other gadgets. They're designed to be used as long as the cell makes electricity.

Can Batteries Be Thrown Out?

• Batteries contain chemicals and metals that produce a reaction to generate electrical energy. While the recycling of batteries is encouraged to protect the environment, you can throw out some types. Common household alkaline batteries are considered non-hazardous. You may toss out alkaline batteries with ordinary trash.
• Button cell batteries used in items like remote car starters and watches contain silver and mercury. They must be recycled. In California, all household batteries are categorized as hazardous waste. Batteries must be brought to a household hazardous waste disposal facility. Another option is recycling at an authorized recycling facility in the state.

How to Dispose of Alkaline Batteries

• Alkaline batteries include AA, AAA, 9 volt and D cells. Small batteries may run remote controls or flashlights. Larger batteries power smoke detectors, clocks and wireless consumer devices. Even when the cells no longer run devices, the batteries can still produce current. They can be hazardous if discarded improperly. Take these precautions before throwing them out:
• Collect used household batteries in a container. A cardboard box or plastic tub is a safe option.
• Prevent any fire risk by taping 9-volt battery terminals before tossing.

How to Dispose of Rechargeable Batteries

• The types of rechargeable batteries in use include lithium-ion and nickel-cadmium. Other types are nickel-metal hydride, nickel-zinc, and small sealed lead batteries. The toxic metals that generate energy in these batteries can hurt the environment if discarded incorrectly.
• Rechargeable 9-volt batteries, AA and AAA batteries, and D cells for household use look like alkaline batteries. The difference is they fit compatible plug-in chargers. Rechargeable batteries are recycled. Look for the battery recycling seals on rechargeable batteries.

Tip: Remove batteries from broken cordless phones, smartphones, and laptops. They'll be ready whether you give away, throw away or recycle the device.

Where to Recycle Batteries

Recycling companies dispose of the components of rechargeable batteries responsibly and properly. The metals and chemicals don’t end up in streams and landfills. Here are some options for recycling:

• Call2Recycle, is a nonprofit battery recycling program. Rechargeable batteries can be dropped off in Call2Recycle bins at partnered store locations. Any rechargeable battery that weighs up to 11 pounds and is under 300-watt hours is accepted. There's no charge for recycling.
• Many local solid waste districts host collection events for residents to drop off batteries.
• Some battery manufacturers and recycling facilities have mail-in programs. Before mailing batteries, be sure to follow postal shipping precautions.
• Most auto care retailers accept car batteries for recycling.

Common types of recyclable batteries:

• Lithium-Ion (L-Ion) battery: These batteries are often used in personal electronics such as smartphones. They also run laptop computers, tablets and cordless power tools.
• Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) Batteries: These rechargeable cells are used in power tools and communication devices. They're for devices that require high current draw but aren't in constant use.
• Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) battery: These rechargable batteries come in AA, AAA, 9 volt and D cells. They're used in digital cameras and other devices that drain power quickly.
• Small Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) Battery: These rechargeable batteries are often used in large items like motor vehicles and lawn mowers. They're also power medical devices and telecommunications.

Practice the proper disposal of used batteries. Knowing how to correctly discard household and rechargeable batteries helps the environment!!

Original Post/Article:
https://www.homedepot.com/c/ab/how-to-dispose-of-batteries/9ba683603be9fa5395fab90124a115f1

Mac Battery/Power Management System Calibration

Calibrating The Battery/Power Management System of a Mac Is Easy To Do!

On a new Apple computer, or after a new battery is installed...

Step 1 – Charge The Battery To 100%

• Shut down the computer and then connect the power adapter.
• Keep the computer plugged in until the light on the power connector turns green indicating a 100% charge.

Step 2 – Charge Two More Hours

• After the battery is 100% charged, keep the power adapter plugged into the computer for an additional 2+ hours. 
• The computer can be powered up and used during this time.

Step 3 – Temporarily Change the Energy Saver Settings

• If the computer is off, you'll need to turn it on.
• In OS X System Preferences click on the Energy Saver preferences.
• In the Energy Saver / Battery preferences:
• Set the "Turn display off after:" slider to "Never"
• Various Mac models may have two sliders for "computer sleep" and "display sleep". If you have two sliders, simply slide both to the right to set them to "Never"
• UNCHECK "Put hard disks to sleep when possible"
• UNCHECK "Slightly dim the display while on battery power"
• Note: The location/existence of certain settings may shift or vary depending on your computer model or OS version.
• In the Energy Saver / Power Adapter preferences:
• Set the "Turn display off after:" slider to "Never"
• Various Mac models may have two sliders for "computer sleep" and "display sleep". If you have two sliders, simply slide both to the right to set them to "Never"
• CHECK "Prevent computer from sleeping automatically when the display is off"
• Note: this setting may or may not be available depending on your model or OS version.
• UNCHECK "Put hard disks to sleep when possible"
• Note: The location/existence of certain settings may shift or vary depending on your computer model or OS version.

Step 5 – Unplug And Drain The Battery

• Unplug the power adapter.
• Leave the computer on until it automatically shuts down.
• You can use the computer during this step, but don't put the computer through heavy use to deplete the battery faster. Steady, even usage is better for power system calibration.

Step 6 – Leave It Off And Unplugged

• After the computer has automatically shut down, leave it shut down for at least 5 hours or overnight. 
• This will ensure the battery is completely drained of energy.

Step 7 – Charge To 100% Again

• Plug the computer back in until the battery is 100% charged.
• While plugged in, the computer can be used.
• This is also a good time to go back and select your desired Energy Saver preferences.

AND THAT'S IT!

After this essential calibration, the new battery will be able to achieve its fullest charge and reach its full lifespan, and the system will display an accurate battery level. You can also reuse these steps to recalibrate the power management system every few months if desired.

Original/Source:
https://www.newertech.com/batteries/power-calibration-guide/#read

Monitor & Printer Color Calibration - PC

Printing out images can sometimes produce different colors and tones than you might expect. Here are a few ways to make sure your screen and printer are properly calibrated.

• DON'T USE STANDARD PRINTER/COPY PAPER!
  
  
• Get a Professional Graphic Design Monitor; Even One Pre-Calibrated:

ViewSonic Professional 27 Inch 4K Monitor with 100% sRGB Rec709 14-bit 3D LUT Color Calibration for Photography and Graphic Design

• Calibrate Your Monitor Colors - Windows 10:

1. Click Search or Cortana in the lower-left corner of your display.
2. Type "Calibrate Display Color".
3. Select "Calibrate Display Color" from the flyout menu to open "Display Color Calibration"
4. If your system has more than one monitor, move the "Display Color Calibration" application window to the display that you want to calibrate and then click Next.
5. Follow the instructions as they walk you through calibrating your monitor.

• Display Color Management - Windows 10:

It's important that you make sure that both your monitor and your printer are using the proper ICC profile. You can see and change these profiles from the "Windows Color Management" dialog box. 

To get there, follow these steps:

1. Click the "Windows Search" or "Cortana" icon in the lower-left corner of your screen.
2. Type "Color Management".
3. Click the Device drop-down menu.
4. Choose your monitor from the list.

Note that if you did not install the drivers that came with your monitor, Windows may recognize and install its own profile for your display. Some inexpensive displays may not come with ICC profiles, and in turn, draw their calibration info from one of Windows' several generic profiles. And remember that, as mentioned, a good number of monitors come calibrated for office settings; the monitor may require some additional tweaking to get colors to match more closely to what comes out of your printer.

• Printer ICC Profile for Paper Being Used: 

As for your printer's ICC profile, nowadays, nearly all printers come with them, which programs like Photoshop, Illustrator, and InDesign load and read as soon as you select the device from the printer list in the application's Print Settings (or equivalent) dialog box. You can also pick up ICC profiles from the hardware manufacturer's website or by contacting the company directly. When you have the profile in hand, you can install it in Windows in two steps:

1. Right-click on the ICC profile file (it has a .icc file extension)
2. Click "Install profile"

ICC Profiles and Monitor Settings Database

• Hardware Color Profiler/Calibration Tool:

Monitor calibration kits and/or monitor-printer calibration kits, have been around for some time now and many of them work quite well. They range in cost from just less than $100 to more than $500. These devices can be your go-to for the entire process of calibration, or in addition to the steps listed previously. 

Datacolor SpyderX Pro – Monitor Calibration Designed for Serious Photographers and Designers

• Other Calibration Tools:
• https://www.calibrize.com/ - Download
• http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ - Online
• https://www.photofriday.com/info/calibrate - Online

Hopefully, with all these steps complete, you should find that your prints are much closer to those on your screen.

Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer/3D Printing "Dialing It In" Tips!

I created this guide to help Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and other Creality Printer owners get their printers and their prints "all dialed in" as I like to say. Let me know if you have any questions or issues and thanks for checking this out!

Dial-In Your Creality 3D Printer:

Overall printer test from Thingiverse. Start here!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975429
Then print this again after tuning your printer!

Chep Cura Profiles for Creality Printers:

Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products Cura profiles for Creality printers, gives you a great starting point for using Cura with a Creality Ender 3, Ender 5, CR-10, and CR-10 Mini 3D Printers.

https://www.chepclub.com/cura-profiles.html

This way you can get started printing higher-quality prints, right out of the gate on your Creality 3D Printer! 

Bed Leveling:

If you do not have ABL (auto bed leveling) please check out this Chep guide below for easily getting your printer bed leveled and printing level: https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html

Propper Belt Tension:

A lot of people think, that more belt tension = better quality. That isn’t the truth at all. The perfect belt tension is when the belt isn’t really tight but teeth on won’t slip at all. Be sure, that you can normally push the belts together with your fingers, but when you move the carriage by hand, everything should be smooth, with no bumps, no weird sounds. To find this perfect spot I’d suggest you add a belt tensioner that will fit your 3D printer!

Calibrate the Extruder:

Increasing or decreasing the millimeter (mm) steps for your extruder so your printer is pulling/extruding the correct amount of filament. 

1. The easiest way to do this is to make a mark on your filament about 100mm away from where the filament goes into your extruder. 
2. Then heat up the printer's hot end and feed 100mm of filament through your extruder. 
3. If all is dialed in correctly, the filament should stop RIGHT on the mark you created. 
4. If you went past the mark a decrease in your steps per mm is needed. 
5. If you didn't hit the mark at all; an increase in your steps per mm is needed.
6. You can calculate deviation and your new/needed Esteps by using a simple formula:
• Deserved length / Observed length * E steps per mm. 
• Using a 105mm example: 100mm / 105mm * E200.00 = E190.47 new number of steps per mm for your extruder.

Print Temperature:

Run a temperature stress test to see what temperature is best for your printer: Stick to the temperature value you consider as the best one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3071464

PID Auto-Tuning:

Poor temperature stability can be caused by both non-calibrated or disabled PIDs as well. There are a few ways to fix Z artifact issues caused by bad PIDs. I highly recommend this printer tuning/PID Tuning guide for both your extruder AND your heated bed: 
https://3dnation504795197.wordpress.com/guide/ 

How To Run Extruder PID Autotune from Terminal: 

1. First home your printer on all axes (X, Y, Z)
2. Next, move your Z axis 10mm up and X and Y to mid of your print bed. 
3. After this turn on your blower fan to 100% by sending M106 S255
4. Next, send the M303 E0 C8 S210 command to your printer, 
• M303 declares PID autotune command for your extruder
• E0 is the number of the extruder (E-1 is the bed, E1 is the second extruder)
• C8 is the number of PID calibration cycles you will run
• S is the desired temperature
5. If print ABS or PETG most of the time, you can use S240 or the temperature value you'd like.
6. Now, wait a few minutes until you see "PID autotune done" in your terminal window. Below that, you’ll see your new Kp, Ki, and Kd values. 
• For example Kp 21.00, Ki 1.25, Kd 86.00. 
7. You have to write these values to EEPROM now using the M301 command. 
• Something like this: M301 P21.00 I1.25 D86.00 (Kp = P, Ki = I, Kd = D)
8. Then save these new values to the printer's EEPROM by using the M500 command. 
9. You can check, that you’ve done everything right by reading EEPROM values with the M503 command. 
• If you see your PID values there under the M301 section, everything should be correct!

How To Run Heat Bed PID Autotune from Terminal: 

1. Move your Z-axis 10-20mm up, and X and Y axis to the mid point of your print bed. 
2. Send the M304 E-1 S60 C6 command to your printer, 
• M304 declares PID autotune command for your heat bed
• E-1 is the bed (E0 is the extruder, etc.)
• S is the desired temperature
• C6 is the number of PID calibration cycles you will run
3. If print ABS or PETG most of the time, you can use S85 or the temperature value you'd like.
4. Now, wait a few minutes until you see "PID autotune done" in your terminal window. 
5. Below that, you’ll see your new Kp, Ki, and Kd values. 
• For example Kp 10.00, Ki 2.00, Kd 5.00
6. You have to write these values to EEPROM now using the M301 command. 
• Something like this: M304 P10 I2 D5 (Kp = P, Ki = I, Kd = D)
7. Then save these new values to the printer's EEPROM by using the M500 command. 
8. You can check, that you’ve done everything right by reading EEPROM values with the M503 command. 
• If you see your PID values there under the M301 section, everything should be correct!

Print Speed:

Run a speed stress test to see what speed(s) may be best for your printer: this will help you with stringing, bridging, and overall print quality.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3071464

Slicer Retraction Settings:

You want to be sure that you have retractions turned on in your slicer software. You want to start with some lower values like 2mm retraction and 30mm/s retraction speed. Then you should print some retraction tests like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563909

This way you can find and save the retraction settings in your slicing software that produce the best results!

Stringing

Stringing happens when there is too much pressure in the extruder and melted plastic leaks out during movement in free space. There are 3 major values, which you are going to adjust to remove stringing: retraction, temperature, and travel speed. Tweaking those settings will help you get rid of stringing on your prints. FYI however, PETG is notorious for stringing! 

Some brands will string no matter what you do! So don't stress out too hard/badly.

Pre-Sliced tests for Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro! 
Pre-sliced G-code for the Ender 3 printers (speed, temperature, and retraction) to help find your ideal slicing settings. Everything is covered in detail here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3071464

AMD Motherboard BIOS/UEFI Upgrades & Setup Service

AMD BIOS Upgrade & Setup ~ $80!

With an AMD Athlon 3000G, I can upgrade the BIOS on your AMD motherboard(s) to accept newer generation AMD CPUs! 

I can also set-up your motherboard with proper overclocks to maximize the performance of your installed RAM and CPU!

"AMD began the introduction of the new 3rd Gen Ryzen™ Desktop Processors in July of 2019. To enable support for these new processors on your AMD motherboard, an updated BIOS may be required. Without such a BIOS, the system may fail to boot with a 3rd Gen AMD Ryzen™ Processor installed." ~ https://www.amd.com/en/support/kb/faq/pa-100

Pacific Northwest Computers
Toll-Free ~ 1-888-533-6199
Local ~ 360-624-7379
SMS ~ 503-583-2380

*The advertised rate is for in-shop service. Onsite service would be charged at our normal hourly rate: www.pnwcomputers.com/rates.html

CenturyLink vs Xfinity! What Internet Provider is the Best!?

CenturyLink vs Xfinity

Out in the Pacific North West we only have two options when it comes to internet service providers: 

CenturyLink or Comcast

Only two?!

That's right!

Even if you are farther out in the rural areas and have service from TDS or SpiritOne, you are simply using rebranded internet from one of those two providers. So that leads us to one of the most asked questions that I get;

"What should I use!? Comcast/Xfinity or CenturyLink?!"

Well for starters, I have used both services for well over 10 years. But I am currently with Comcast/Xfinity Internet. I used CenturyLink for about 10 years when I lived in Battle Ground, WA, and briefly again when I moved to Vancouver, WA. But have been with Xfinity/Comcast for the last 10 years now. Not to mention the thousands of on sites I do a year (for the past 11 years), I see and deal with a LOT of networking and internet issues. So I think can safely say that I have a good understanding of how each of these companies works and operates.

When it comes to you how much Internet you get per dollar, CenturyLink right now is the king of the castle. With their new fiber Internet Service, they are able to get one-gigabit speeds to their customers at a cheaper price than you can get similar speeds from Comcast/Xfinity.

However, in my experience, I've found that CenturyLink had the most downtime and most extended downtimes of the two companies. For example, when I was in college I had a finals test to do through an online school. I was not able to complete that test due to a 72-hour outage from CenturyLink. I have had some outages with Comcast/Xfinity that sometimes have lasted most of the day or the night. But I have never run into such an extensive outage issue via Comcast/Xfinity.

Now the one issue I would definitely give a crown to Comcast/Xfinity four is the lack of the ability in their support team to properly identify and rectify issues with their customer’s internet connection and speed issues. For example, I recently upgraded to 1GB internet service at my home office. With a compatible modem and all, my internet went down for several days after the upgrade had occurred. They did get me up and running, but was not getting the speed I was paying for. In total it took over two weeks of phone tech support, and three visits from an onsite technician to get my Internet to working correctly. I have had similarly bad of issues getting tech support from CenturyLink as well, but I think Comcast/Xfinity beats them by a margin.

As a side note to all that I have explained bout Comcast/Xfinity so far, I would also bring attention to their Comcast/Xfinity business service. If you are a business, you don’t necessarily have to use their Business internet service. They purport that the business internet has a guaranteed uptime that the home internet doesn’t have, but have never found that to be true. If they have an outage, typically home and business services go down first. I will note, however, that business customers are prioritized for onsite service. That I can verify. However, you will pay more for your Internet dramatically less speed. So if you are a home-based business you most likely can just use Comcast/Xfinity home Internet!

The one caveat to all of that however is that if you use their business security nor their business telephone service you will have to use their business Internet. One recommendation I'd make to customers facing this type of dilemma is for them to get their security and telephone service through a different provider. Then simply get/use the fastest home internet they have available for your location!

So, when it comes down to it, what you REALLY are doing is choosing the lesser of two evils for providing you internet service.

• If you don't have a home-based business/rely on the internet, don't mind extended outages because of a wind storm, you can get some cheaper FAST internet via CenturyLink.
• If your day-to-day life relies on the need for internet (home business, student, etc.) then Comcast/Xfinity would be the way to go.

Again, this is all my opinion. But with my experience and expertise in the IT/IT support field, I hope this can help some folks make the decision between the two "King Pins" of Pacific Northwest internet; CenturyLink vs Comcast.